Running Gear

When you service your bike, particularly when used in dirty or dusty environments, you should check the various linkages are adequately lubricated and clean.  This will greatly enhance their longevity and your enjoyment.  The rear suspension bearings should be kept clean, but beware of using high pressure cleaning in this area as there are needle roller bearings here that are prepacked with grease and over enthusiastic cleaning will potentially remove the lubricant and accelerate wear.

Oil Type

The high temperatures in the head would also suggest that it would be wise to follow the factory recommendation of a fully synthetic oil. The factory owners manual recommends AGIP 4T.  Locally this is not readily available, so I use Mobil 1 4T Super Racing.  Fully synthetic oils have a higher resistance to extended high temperatures.  They are, however, much more expensive than mineral or semi synthetic oils, and some owners are using semi synthetic oils as a result.

I would always change the oil at least every 5,000 kms, possibly more often if a semi synthetic or mineral oil is used, as these types of oil will degrade more rapidly due to the high running temperatures of the engine.

Some owners have also noted that the choice of oil makes a significant difference to the clutch action.  This is understandable, given that the clutch is 'wet' and runs in the same oil as the engine and gearbox.  This can lead to clutch slip which in turn can lead to accelerated clutch wear, so once again oil choice is important.

Laverda originally recommended the use of a mineral oil for the first 1,000 km running in period on a new motor.  This allows for a more rapid bedding in of the various engine components.  The first oil change is therefore important and should not be skipped.  It would most probably pay to do this also when/if you fit the engine upgrade kit, as described elsewhere on this site.

Mineral vs Synthetic

Some advice from one distributor to a 750 owner, which I have not had confirmed officialy, is that the factory started advising 750 owners to use straight mineral oil for trhe first 15,000 kms to ensure, in particular, proper bedding in of the rings.  This certainly seems reasonable, or at least worthwhile considering, given the oil consumption levels seen on early bikes that have needed the factory upgrades fitted and the state of the bores and rings when they have been removed.  This, together with similar advice from BMW oil-head owners, and reports as to the length of time those bikes take to slow oil consumption rates from new, could be taken as supporting evidence for using a high quality mineral oil for an extended time while running in.  Balance this advice with the high temperatures experienced in the 668 motor and the higher temperature resistance of synthetic vs mineral oil, of course.

Oil Filter

In my part of the world, getting suitable oil filters anywhere in New Zealand is currently nigh on impossible, as even the standard reproductions from Champion are impossible to come by.  In fact, the last time I asked for a Champion filter they had to supply a genuine Italian FIAAM filter for the same price!  Stocks of the FIAAM filters have since run dry as well.  Another alternative is a UFI part (thanks to Adrian Webber for this one).  Siegfried Haas has supplied a good long list of alternatives also, many of which are possibly more easily found in Germany.

Note that the service manual also recommends changing the O-ring seal every third time you clean the oil filter trap in the lower crank case.

Lubrication

© Steve Carr, 2001-2007

Site created February, 2000.  Last modified Friday, May 15, 2009

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Last updated
30 May 2005