Chain Adjustment

Every adjustment procedure possible is listed somewhere or other in the various Laverda publications or on the bike itself.  The rear swingarm lists a no-load adjustment distance from the top of the lower chain run to the swing arm of 15 mm.  The factory service manual gives this same distance for the same measurement as 25 mm.  In the owners manual it lists a different measurement technique again...  Given that the swingarm pivot and the front sprocket pivot are not concentric (an ideal situation but very rarely implemented) this adjustment is critical, as the chain tightens considerably when load is applied (ie. the rider sits on the bike...)  My experience is that 25 mm, as per the factory service manual, is probably a better bet, as 15 mm is too tight and can end up stretching the chain.  Also, make sure that the rear wheel is lined up correctly by using the marks on the swingarm and the almost impossible to see marks on the adjusters, viewed through the inspection slot.  I had a shop adjust my chain and they didn't line things up correctly - result, one ruined chain and rear sprocket with four teeth with broken tips!  I find a torch to be very useful when checking the alignment.  The whole adjustment operation is made much easier if you have access to a paddock stand.

Chain Lubrication

Contrary to popular belief, O-ring chains do need maintenance.  The O-rings harden over time and road grit and grime will also form a paste and grind away at the chain links.  Clean the chain regularly with WD40 and then apply O-ring chain lube.  Alternatively you can get a Scottoiler or similar automatic chain lubricator - some 668 owners have fitted these, although finding a mounting point for the oil reservoir might be tricky.

Final Drive

© Steve Carr, 2001-2007

Site created February, 2000.  Last modified Friday, May 15, 2009

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Last updated
30 May 2005